Friday, February 26, 2010

Why I love February...

I'm back at long last and ready for a little show and tell.  Things have been busy in the Guinee family infirmary...I have been knitting, knitting, knitting away...so don't cry too hard over my illness.

The two projects I am most anxious to share are my new February sweaters.  Yes, sweaters with an "s" at the end—as in more than one—I loved this project so much that I actually made two, one right after another {and I have another variation of it on the needles as we speak—I think this making multiples might be getting to be a new trend for me—strange}.
Here's what I ended up with—one springy green tunic...
 and one lacy tunic in a color I call Annri plum {in honor of the sweet friend who put Elizabeth's book in my hands}...
The green is made in chunky Lanaloft by Brown Sheep.  I love how chunky yarns handle lace...always a surprise and always so cool.  
 
 and the Plum is Mountain Mohair by Green Mountain Spinnery.
Look it twirls!...
Anyway, as I mentioned in an earlier post these sweaters were based on Elizabeth Zimmerman's February baby sweater from Knitters Almanac.  I could go on and on about Elizabeth Zimmerman—I have long been an admirer of her no nonsense approach to knitting, and have always had a special love for her work and her writing.  She is the one who really got me designing, the one who made my knitting just that...my knitting.  Way back, when we were living in Ann Arbor, a very special friend introduced me to EZ through the book Knitting Without Tears.  This book forever changed my relationship with sticks and string...it gave me the confidence I needed to begin making sweaters that were tailored to my taste and needs, and before I even knew it I was designing.  I have been wanting to go through her books textbook style {especially Elizabeth Zimmerman's Knitting Workshop} for quite awhile, and I decided at the end of last year that it's time to start working toward that goal.  So here is my first step...
I started here...with the month of February in Knitter's Almanac and that cute little baby sweater in the  corner of the picture in the book...
 
It's a simple sweater, worked from the top-down with a garter stitch yoke and a lace body.  I don't need a baby sweater just now, but I do need a nice tunic, something comfy, easy to wear, warm enough for our drafty old house, one that is ready and willing to conceal a multitude of holiday indulgences and that will still make me feel pretty.
I am going to walk you through the steps that I took to get from baby sweater to tunic.  Bear in mind that, in true EZ style, this will be a "pithy" discussion of the how-to, but I think you will be able to follow along just fine.  I'm working on a more detailed description of the process, by way of an adjustable pattern, if there is any interest.

First I grabbed a shirt that I love—one that fits just like I wanted my sweater to fit.  I measured the bust of the shirt and recorded that number {this measurement will be the bodice circumference at the bust}.

These sweaters have a square neckline and to get the neckline depth and width that I wanted, I tried on my t-shirt and taped the neckline off like so...
Then I took the yarn and made a gauge swatch in garter stitch {the stitch used for the bodice}.  I made the swatch a little tighter than I would normally in anticipation of the stretching that the sweater would get once the piece was completed.  I didn't worry too much about row gauge, but was careful to get an accurate stitch count to get the measurement of the stitches per inch.  I multiplied the bust measurement by the stitches per inch to get the number of stitches required for the bodice of the sweater and recorded that number.

I calculated the number of stitches needed for the neckline by multiplying the neckline circumference by the stitches per inch.  I cast on and joined the work in the round.  Somewhere along the way decided that I wanted an eyelet border {to put a ribbon through the edge of the neckline} so I did a simple K2tog, yo, around the upper edge.

The way the yoke of the sweater is constructed is pretty simple.  Markers go at the corners where the strap stitches and the center meet, and increases are worked on either side of the markers every other round.  I used a YO increase on the center sections and a M1 on the strap sections.  That's what gives that single row of holes from the neckline edge to the armholes.
On the plum sweater I decided that I wanted a center lace panel like the pattern used on the peplum.
 When the neckline was the depth I wanted {almost to my armpits—I tried it on}, I bound off the stitches for the straps as I worked my way around...
 
At this point I counted my total number of stitches and compared it to the number of stitches required for the bodice/bust of the sweater.  This told me how many stitches I would need to increase to get to the total number of stitches needed for the bustline.  Depending on the type of armhole you want, you could cast all of the needed stitches on at one time—half at one armhole and half at the other {this would give you a square armhole}, or you could increase gradually by working a few rows on the front and back in rows {flat, back and forth}.  For both of my sweaters I put the stitches for the front of the sweater on a holder and worked a few rows flat, back and forth, increasing at the beginning and the end of every other row.  I then put the back of the sweater on a spare needle and worked the front of the sweater in the same manner.
  
After that I rejoined the sweater in the round, casting on extra stitches at the underarms to reach the total number of stitches needed for the bust.  

Armhole increases...

After that it's just knit a round, purl a round, continuing in garter stitch until the bodice is the depth desired—again, I tried it on.

The peplum of the sweater is worked in the gull lace stitch pattern from EZ's baby sweater.  This lace pattern is a multiple of 7 stitches, so you might have to fudge a stitch or two to get from the bodice stitch count to the skirt stitch count.  This is perfectly legal and in complete keeping with EZ's style of knitting—to accommodate for the 7 stitch pattern, you could either increase or decrease your number of stitches, depending on your preference and the look that you are going for {if it's just a stitch or two, it probably won't change the look of your garment at all}.


To begin the peplum, I went up a needle size.  You could make your sweater straight, up and down, without the a-line shaping by continuing with the same needle {or one size smaller than the one that you used for the bodice}.  I wanted my sweaters to be more forgiving than that and so I continued to increase my needle size as I worked my way to the hem {I eventually ended up with a needle 3 sizes up from the size that I used for the bodice}.  If you wanted your sweater to be very flouncy, with more of a skirt, you could even add stitches at the lower edge of the bodice before beginning the peplum—this would give the skirt a gathered look. 

I finished the sweaters with a round or two of reverse stockinette stitch {but you could also use garter stitch} and then I washed and blocked them.   A quick word about blocking...do it!...you won't be sorry!...it honestly makes the difference between homemade and handcrafted {especially where lace is involved}...
...cute corgi optional.

Gotta get back to Strepapalooza!...the remaining three of our family started antibiotics today {that makes all five at one time!...woohoo!  A big shout out to Alexander Fleming for developing those magic meds—hello z-pack, bye-bye strep!...that's what we're hoping anyway!  Take care, stay healthy and, as always happy knitting! 

xoxo~alison

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Just checking in...

Hi friends!...

Excuse my absence this week, I've been a little under the weather :(  {nothing serious, just feeling yuk enough to take the wind out of my sails}.  I didn't want another day to go by without stopping by to say hello, though.  I've been thinking about you, and have been missing my time here, and my visits to your creative spaces out there in the blogosphere.  I can't wait to catch up with what you've been up to and am looking forward to a little show and tell here next week, complete with photos and maybe some how-tos of the making I've been working on—a new design for a neckwarmer for an upcoming class at Yarns Unlimited, a shop sample of Satine from French Girl Knits, a new smock design inspired by Elizabeth Zimmerman's February baby sweater from The Knitter's Almanac, and last but not least, more fabric origami.

Bye for now, though, I'm off to snuggle under a blanket and to watch the Olympics {fyi—the winter games make for nice company when you're not feeling up to snuff—couldn't have planned it better}.

Hope you are well and are having a great day...See you soon!...
xoxo~alison

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Valentines toast...

No, not that kind—this kind...

I found this little gem a while back and have been using it judiciously—I think of it as a low tech way of instant messaging my kids.

I actually bought this toast imprinter for my now husband on our first Valentine's Day together back when we were courting {can you imagine?...what was I thinking?!!!}.  If I remember correctly, it was one of many little treasures that I collected together in a gift bag for him.  Why he, just out of college at the time, didn't run for the hills when he pulled that toast imprinter out of the package, I'll never know, but I'm ever so grateful that he didn't—instead he stuck around with a sense of humor and a willingness to humor me.  Now would I ever suggest that my 18 year old daughter gift her boyfriend with such a token of her love?...no, I would not!...but I have to say that any guy who can graciously receive an "I love you" toast imprinter clearly doesn't take himself too seriously {always good to know}.

This little love token always makes me smile and, like my kids, it reminds me of what an open heart is capable of—the utter fearlessness of laying our hearts bare to love of all kinds.  And now, lo these many years later, it seems only fitting that I use it to send a little love out there.  Today I toast you!...I send you my wishes for happiness and love and all good things this Valentine's Day!  Whatever you're doing, wherever you are, may your day be lovely!... 

xoxo~alison

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Snowday stitches...

Snowdays, snowdays!...I love {or should I say, I <3} them!...a mini-holiday, where we are forced to stay home and create our own fun...what could be better?  I've been busying myself with a little snowday stitchery...


Embroidered linen sachets filled with lavender {you know about the moth repelling qualities of lavender, right?...it's very helpful in keeping those little guys away from your woolens}.

This was such a fun project...wonderful in so many ways.  As I made these, I loved thinking about the future recipients of these hearts and tailoring the message to each...

 

Embroidering on the linen was so yummy...I really do think that linen is to sewing what wool is to knitting—pure tactile pleasure—and even though my embroidery skills are woefully lacking, I enjoyed each and every stitch of this project.  Most of the hearts have embroidery on just one side, but others have it on the front...

   
and on the back...
 

Like I said...I had fun, fun, fun with this project!  They whip up in a snap and once you get going, you won't want to stop.  Here are the instructions, step by step...

Gathering your materials...
 
~a cookie cutter or cardboard cut-out to use as a stencil for your sachet
~embroidery needles
~embroidery floss
~linen, cotton, or fabric of choice
~embroidery hoop
~straight pins
~sewing needles and sewing thread
~dried lavender {or roving or polyfil stuffing if you want to make a pillow instead of a sachet}
~an iron
~dressmaker's pencil or marker
~scissors
* Most food co-ops sell dried lavender in their spice section.  For those of you who can't find lavender near your home, I am completely sympathetic—there isn't a source near me either.  I just checked for some online sources though, and here are a couple:  This site looks like they have a nice selection and good prices—I've not used them, but plan to try them out in the future.  I have used this Etsy site—it costs a bit more, but the lavender they sent is lovely and the service was prompt.  Hope this helps.

Getting started...
First, trace the outline of your sachet onto the piece of fabric and center your message within, making sure that you center your message and allow for a 1/2" seam allowance...
Once your design is on the fabric, put it in the embroidery hoop and begin stitching.  I used the stem stitch for mine...it is a good stitch for a wavy, loopy and yet bold line.  I am including some in-progress pictures of my stitching here.  If you've never embroidered before, I suggest you check out this fine site.  Here is her video tutorial of the stem stitch...it and the others offered are excellent.

Cut a length of embroidery floss {about 24"}.  The floss is made up of 6 strands.  Divide the 6 strands of your length of floss into two groups of 3 strands each.  Thread the embroidery needle with a group of 3 strands—you want to use a needle with an eye big enough to accommodate the floss, but that is also thin enough to avoid leaving a hole in your fabric.  Knot the end of the floss, and starting from the back of the work, bring the needle from back to front {wrong side to right side} at the base of the first letter in your message—you will be working from left to right if you work your message in stem stitch.
Begin embroidering your message...
As you go along, make sure that you hold the thread down, like so...
To avoid big floats of floss on the back of your work, stitch the lines that are connected to one another first and then add the cross lines and loops where needed.  Here is the way my xoxo heart looked as I went along...front...
back...
and front again...
After the embroidery is done, it is time to cut the heart out.  Remember to leave a 1/2" seam allowance all the way around your heart...
 
You will need to cut out a backing for each heart as well...
Once the heart and its backing are cut, pin the front and back together with the right sides together...
Sew the heart together {by hand or machine}, beginning at one side and leaving an opening to fill the heart {the opening should be about 1 1/2"}.  If you begin and end your heart at the spots indicated in the picture below, it will be easy to fill and seam later...
Once you have seamed around the heart, trim the seam allowances.  To avoid puckering make a snip, up to but not over the seam at various points around the heart.  You will do this at the center of the heart and around the curved sections of the heart—this is especially important at the cleft of the heart...
Turn the heart right side out, using a knitting needle to push the curves and the point of the heart into place.  Snip any loose threads and iron the heart before filling it.
 
Now it is time to fill...I used lavender for mine...heavenly!  Fill so that the sachet is plumped up a bit, but not overly full—you want the lavender to move around in the sachet...
 
Sew the hole closed.  This may very well be the most blissful sewing I've ever done...the feel of the pressed linen and the smell of the lavender is absolutely delicious...
 
And before you know it...voila!...


Just one quick thing more...
Last, but certainly not least!...Thank you, thank you for the nice comments to my last post!...you guys are so lovely.  I am flattered by your kind words, am ever so grateful to those of you who linked to the post—and of course, I am over the moon about it's inclusion in whip-up!  Thank you from {dare I say it?...} the bottom of my heart!  Happy stitching!...

xoxo~alison

Thursday, February 4, 2010

A container for my joy!...

Hello my dears...
Remember my last post, where I extolled the virtues of fusible web and all of its no-sew, reversible-fabric goodness?  Well, here I am again with another no-sew tutorial just for you...and just so you know, there are already a couple more tutorials in the works!...I've been in kind of a gotta-make-it-must-share-it frenzy lately...so much fun!  Anyway, here is my latest distraction...

 ...little origami pockets...containers of joy~love notes~party favors~Valentines~chocolates~and all sorts of other sweet things.  They are fast, fun and easy...a great big-kid and little-kid project!

I am going to go through the directions for these step by step.  There are lots of pictures to help us along the way.  Before we get too far in, though, let me give you a peek at some of the other little pockets that are hanging around here—it might be helpful as you choose your materials.  There are two-sided fabric pockets, like the cotton ones above and this linen~on~linen one...

 

And there are paper-backed fabric pockets, like this map~on~linen one...


I used pages from an old, tattererd atlas {like in this project} for this pocket, but you could use any medium weight paper you choose.

Here is what you will need—
~fusible web
~fabric square and another piece of fabric or paper for the lining—the amounts needed will vary depending on the size of your pockets {one square foot is more than enough}
~an iron
~ruler
~scissors
~optional supplies include—a bone folder, glue, needle and thread, ribbon and any other embellishments desired.

Finished measurements—
Large—3 1/4" tall and 4 3/4"  wide at the top opening
Small—2 3/4" tall and  4" wide at the top opening

And now without further ado, let's get started!
First we fuse...
Iron the fusible web to your fabric following the instructions on the packaging.  Then peel off the paper backing...
 

Next iron the lining material {can be fabric or paper} to your piece of fabric ... 
 
Here you see the two-sided fabric {one piece of linen lined with the map and the other piece of linen lined with a lighter weight white linen}...
Next, we need to crop the fabric so that it is ready for origami.  You want a perfect square.  The larger pockets are made with an 8" square and the smaller pockets are made with a 6" square...

Now we begin the origami!... 
This is the simplest origami pattern that I know, and one that I remember learning as a girl.  Maybe you went through a phase where you made these little paper cups when you were young too?  I remember making dozens of them, filling them with water, drinking out of them, filling them with snacks, and feeling so cool {geeky, no?}...anyway, suffice it to say that it is perfect for any kid looking for an alternative to traditional Valentines.

First, place your square on the table just like so, with the side that will form the lining of your pocket facing up and with the square arranged on point so that there is a corner at the top, one at the bottom, and with the other two corners to the sides... 
Just a note:  It helps to have a bone folder handy {that thing on the left} to help you form crisp creases in your origami.  If you don't have one, you can use an unsharpened pencil, the flat edge of your scissors, or even the tip of your iron {doesn't have be on}.

The first fold—bring the bottom corner up to the top corner and fold the square on the diagonal, forming an isosceles triangle like so...
Press along the fold to get a good crease {you will do this for all future folds}...
Next, you will bring the corner on the right over to the left leg of the triangle like so...
 
As you make this fold, you will create a smaller isosceles triangle at the top of your piece, the base of which should be parallel to the base of your original triangle. 
Fold the top corner of this triangle down...
This side is done...
Turn the piece over...
 
 And repeat the all of the steps above on this side of the piece...
 
Your pocket is now complete!... 
 You may want to add a little bit of glue to the middle of each flap to secure it...
This is not necessary but it allows you to thread a ribbon through the top of the flaps to form a handle...
 
You can also secure the flaps with a button...
And attach handles by sewing to the sides...
...or to the middle of your pocket...
Embellish at will!...
And then fill your little pockets with whatever your heart desires...
These sweethearts were made with this brilliant and free pattern on Ravelry {thank you Annri!}—the larger one on a US 7 knitting ndl with Cascade 220 and the smaller one on US 00 with embroidery floss—just because : )
 Delicious!...and I'm so loving that button~it looks just like my girly.  
I can't wait to distribute these little pockets!...I think they'll be as much fun to give away as they were to make.  Here's hoping that you enjoy these as much as I do!...and if you do make some, I'd love to see what you come up with...love getting pictures {just sayin'}.
So long for now...much to do today...there's another tutorial in the works, a birthday cake to make, a snow storm coming {yay!...bring on the snow!} and, of course, my knitting basket{s} are calling me...looks to be a very busy, but very nice day!  Wishing you the same!...

xoxo~alison